Sailing off

Well, it’s been a while since I posted here.  Procrastinated over the last few weeks since finishing my thru hike.  It took me around 12 hours most days so there wasn’t a lot of time for me to blog.  Luckily my trail name became Haiku- you can read my haikus at

I’ve since accepted a job doing acupuncture on cruise ships, so I’ll be shipping off tomorrow for my next crazy journey.

Fun with crayons and markers!

Yeah…so pretty much I got real hooked up.  I’ve not been to a lot of these places and Australia and New Zealand can be really expensive places to travel.  Having accommodation and some of my food paid for (whatever I eat on the ship), as well as travel, will help a lot.  There will be a lot of “sea days” where the ship doesn’t stop at ports, which is good for me as a service provider on the ship- passengers can’t book treatments with me if they are not on the ship to have them.

The bad- well, not so bad, but a little scary- I have to work pretty hard.  It’s a 52 hour work week though hopefully I can concentrate my schedule on the days we are at sea, so I have bigger chunks of time off in port.  There is a lot of patient education via seminars and even demos I will give if I’m not busy, something that’s a little nerve-wracking but I think will be okay once I get used to it.

At this point it’s just about impossible for me to concentrate on studying the seminars so I’ve been trying to pump up with finding info about the ports and having schemes to keep myself motivated just in case.  I have a little exercise plan since that’s going to be so important there, literally there will be days where I won’t be on land.  I’m considering another long hike next summer so I’d like to be in shape.

Places I will visit:

  • Hawaii
  • Samoa
  • Fiji
  • Vanuatu
  • New Caledonia
  • Australia
  • Indonesia
  • New Zealand
  • Tonga
  • Niue
  • Cook Islands
  • French Polynesia
  • Mexico
  • Panama
  • Ecuador
  • Peru
  • Costa Rica
  • Nicaragua
  • Guatemala
  • Kiribati
  • Christmas Island (I am so excited about this !  Geeked out about this place as a kid)

At the end of seven months I’ll be in San Diego, which is also the biggest city near the start of the PCT (Pacific Crest Trail).  There is a definite part of me that likes the ridiculousness of living on a boat for seven months and then immediately walking and living under a tarp for five months.  It’s also the right time to start the hike so we shall see.

Anyway to keep myself entertained I have decided to take up the hobby of cold-brewing coffee.  I’m going to all these places that either produce coffee or have a strong coffee culture.  It works great for the ship as you aren’t allowed to have water heating appliances but there is often a refrigerator to store the concentrate in.  Also, coffee has caffeine and I have a hunch I’ll need a lot of it.  So look forward to some reviews in the next few months.




Day 6

Sasafras Gap camping to Dick’s Creek Gap (Hiawassee, GA) – 6.3 miles


I was totally excited to get into town for my first rest break.  I was really just beat by the heat or whatever the day before.  Unfortunately my energy had not really recovered, and I also developed a bit of a hacking cough with yellow green phlegm.  Also, apparently the chafing that had started to develop on my bum #hikerproblems apparently bled through to my sleeping pad.  Gross.  It was time to get to town.

It was hard to keep going at times and the miles seemed really long.  Finally things started to warm up and I started picking up a little pace.  I got down to the road around noon after leaving closer to 9 than 8:30, late for me.  I got a hitch fairly quickly with Jose, who was up from SC installing carpets.  Checked into the Holiday Inn which is a nice deal on points (15,000)- they have a hot tub and heated indoor pool, and all you can eat breakfast!  There was a couple inquiring about a room when I checked in so I decided to offer the other bed to them in exchange for dinner or a few bucks.  They had more energy than I and were immediately off to “the highest point in Georgia”- I took a shower and headed across the road to the AYCE buffet, which was highly mediocre.  I really forced myself to eat and drink sweet tea, which luckily was not TOO sweet.  Took a nap after as I was still feeling low energy.  The rest of the afternoon I slowly perked up like a wilting flower just watered.  Will head out for Mexican soon with the couple, temporarily dubbed “The Hitched Hikers” (this is their honeymoon).

Day 5

Blue Mountain shelter to Sassafras Gap campsite (12.8 miles)

So apparently I was on crack or yerba mate or whatever when I made up this schedule of where I thought I’d be, in order to coordinate mail drops.  The schedule for today I’d made had me hiking ALL of Blue Mountain (luckily I’d gone past that plan and started from the summit), then Rocky Mountain (a steep up and down) and Trey Mountain (another steep up and down), then some squiggly terrain that didn’t look too bad, another mountain, and a smallish mountain, to get to Hiawassee.  I actually felt pretty good though, making really nice time down Blue, up and down Rocky, and then up Trey, from about 8:30-1:30.  Then just after the summit of Trey I totally sagged.  I took a bit of a lunch break but was feeling sort of weak, no pain or anything, but just slow.  The terrain flattened out a bit and I made some miles but by 3p I was feeling pretty beat again.  I managed to get roaming reception on my phone with the last of battery and called the hotel to change my reservation for tomorrow.   I think the sun was also just beating on me through the trees, mostly oaks and beeches without foliage yet.  I finally got out my visor.

I made it another hour to the “Swag of the Blue Ridge”- which although it looks like a mostly harmless squiggly line on the elevation chart in my guidebook, actually is a more tough up and down and up and down trudge.  I sat down at the little campsite there and took some time for a protein bar and to air my feet out, and talk to the two guys camped there that were doing a section hike.  They said a campsite was a mile ahead “all downhill” with a water source close by.  Actually, said campsite was pretty much uphill except the last 5-10 minutes, really brutal for me.  Coral stopped by when I was there and wanted to head on PAST the Hiawassee hitch, to a campsite around mile 70, where she was hoping to meet up with Chelsea (sp?), a PCT thru hiker who was hoping to do the AT in under 100 days.  I had passed Chelsea the day before at Hogsback Gap and hadn’t seen her since, not even at the campsite, so was dubious to whether or not they would meet.  Anyway, I was set- I was just beat.  I went to bed pretty early and it was a mostly comfortable night, though at maybe 3-4 am the wind picked up, and the temperature dropped 10-20 degrees I think.  Still not as cold as at Bull’s Gap.

Day 4


I thought the tent was going to fall over even with me in it.

It was really really really windy at Bull Gap.  It also got quite cold.  I was worried about Longcloud who was sleeping in just a plastic emergency shelter and 45F sleeping bag, but there wasn’t much I could do, I only had a tiny 1 person tent myself, and I was wearing all my clothes to stay warm.  He said he didn’t sleep much, and that at 7am it was 32F…I guess it was even colder before.  Well, when it’s cold, the best solution is to get moving.  Again I played leapfrog with the German lady as well as seeing some other guys I’d met previous days.  At some point I passed them though.  Really was feeling good energy that day.  A bunch of hill types and I was just powering up them, not as fatigued as I usually get.

The question for me that day was where I would stop.  There was a really cool place called Enota Mountain Lodge or Resort or Something which was an organic farm with work for stay.  I heard they had a trout pond where you could catch your dinner, and even a waterfall!  However, it wasn’t 100% clear how to get there from the trail, and my phone using Sprint towers via Ting wasn’t getting much reception in the backcountry.  I decided to go as far as I felt I was able.

The day went on and I was still doing pretty good.  I took a longish break at Hogsback Gap to get water from a meh source.  Also had my new standby meal, salami with “nutella” (Dark Chocolate Almond + Sea Salt, courtesy of Barefoot + Chocolate- thanks guys!)  That stuff revved me up I guess since I just powered on through the afternoon.  I got a little tired on a ridge as I was getting closer to Blue Mountain and stopped for some plantain chips and the chocolate spread.  A few minutes later Coral marched on up the trail.  She was from Victoria BC and had been training in the mountains up there and really was a powerhouse, she left an hour or two after me apparently.  I felt a boost in having someone to talk to even though I had also really enjoyed hiking solo so far to be able to hike at a pace comfortable for me.  There was a campsite a mile or so beneath the summit of Blue Mountain that I probably would have stopped at if it was just me, but she pointed out there was no water source there, so we trudged on the mile up all sorts of rocks to Blue Mountain.  It was a pretty nice shelter though and I even managed to snag a spot in the shelter.  I already liked sleeping in the shelters as I think it’s marginally warmer there (this one sure was, it had a tarp rigged up in front) and more importantly it saves time in the morning.  I don’t have to worry about drying out a wet tent or even packing a dry one.

Day 3

Gooch Mountain shelter to Bull Gap campsite (17 miles)

Today was a big day.  I was hoping to get to near Neels Gap, though I was behind on my “schedule” due to only hiking about 4 miles the first day because of rain.  In order to get to Neels Gap, I’d have to get over Blood Mountain, which was supposed to be pretty steep up and down.  Additionally, there was a 6 mile or so area including the mountain where one was required to have a bear canister to camp.  So, one had to decide at Justus Creek campsite (around mile 25) what they were going to do.

I felt pretty good all day though.  I played leapfrog with the German lady from Munster who was quite frankly a total badass (I think her pack was bigger than she was).  It was a Saturday and that meant trail magic!  There was a guy named Dr. Pepper who I ran into on the trail before Woody Gap who handed me a ziplock of candy.  I realized later that there was a pamphlet inside with one of those creepy handwritten, zeroxed life stories about a conversion to faith.  Well, being in the South, it’s not so surprising.

Then at Woody Gap proper “The Bus” was set up- a group of people from the “Twelve Tribes” sect that I have only vague ideas of their religion.  It seems to me that basically they all take on these names that are a cross of Old Testament names with something out of a L Ron Hubbard novel, drink yerba mate like there’s no tomorrow, and have a hard on for hooking up thru hikers.  They have a series of hostels throughout the trail.  Anyway, yeah.  Definitely not the worst religion I’ve heard of.  They hooked me up with mate juice, some veggie chili, and probably the most delicious energy bar I ever had.  I asked what was in it and they said “uh, you know, kale, some stuff, carob chips”.  I think probably, there was a ton of yerba mate, since that stuff powered me up Blood Mountain later like it was nada.

I took a longish lunch break at Justus Creek and decided to head on and conquer the mountain.  A guy named Longcloud joined me for part of the break and I gave him most of the candy from Dr. Pepper, which I didn’t like. We walked together for a bit but as he seemed quite speedy and at ease I encouraged him to go on ahead.  Before I knew it I was at the top of the mountain!  It wasn’t easy, but definitely did not seem as steep as it sounded from the guide.  The summit was packed with day hikers.  Going down was a little tricky for me as I feel I need to be careful to avoid slipping, and it hurts my knees a little.  There were all these kids, and even a guy in his 60s who were just blazing downhill though.

I got to the Mountain Crossings center around 4:30 and popped in to buy a little alcohol fuel for cooking (didn’t get to stop on the way to Springer) a Smartwater bottle (the nozzle can be used to backflush my water filter and also I needed a “clean” water bottle) and also a temporary fuel bottle- a sweet iced tea.  This came to $6 and change.

It was a mile up to the Bull Gap campground, fairly steep.  I headed up with Longcloud and we were a little worried as we only saw orange blazes, instead of white ones.  A guy assured us we were on the right trail but he seemed a little off.  Longcloud stopped to pee and I headed on ahead.  I ended up stopping maybe 2 tenths of a mile on for him to catch up- it really seemed longer than the mile it was supposed to be.  After about 10 minutes though we finally reached the campsite.  It was a long day and after making some food most people hit the sack.

Day 2

Stover Creek Shelter to Gooch Mountain Shelter (13 miles)

Today was a good day.  I thought there would be rain in the AM but it never surfaced.  Last night was a pretty big storm, lots of thunder and even some lightning, but I was nice and dry at the shelter.  Would’ve got up earlier but I thought it was still raining from the rain dripping down off trees on the roof.

Otherwise mostly smooth sailing today.  About a mile out of the shelter I saw some crawdad looking thing on the trail.  I was too lazy to take a picture, was mildly confused about what it could be, and could only think, “LOBSTER STICKS TO MAGNET!!!”  APPARENTLY, that critter was a scorpion. Whoa.  It was only about 2.5 inches long.  I passed some people from the Stover Creek shelter off and on all day, but they mostly were not at Gooch.  The few that were got there a bit later than me.

I saw Martin again who was in good spirits.  Martin walked into Stover Creek shelter yesterday in jeans and a windbreaker that were completely soaked.  He looked like he was in rough shape then but he decided to head on despite the rain.  I guess he had things figured out at some point and made camp.  Oddly enough when I ran into him (when it was NOT raining) he had on his Frogg Toggs poncho.

The rest of the day was pretty chill.  Apparently I passed over Sassafras mountain without knowing what it was.  I was a little slow going up Justus mountain but that was short.  Ended up for the night at Gooch Mountain shelter, hilarious ridgerunner here named Lord Gooch.  Nice talks with interesting people, including an older German lady thru hiking by herself.


Days 0 and 1

Well, pretty much the usual procrastination nonsense on my part.  I DID have a lot to do this week, but still.  I’d wanted to get a fair deal more done on making meals and trail mix the night before, but I guess I passed out from drinking 2 glasses of wine…or maybe the water (a 24 pack of 8 oz bottles I POUNDED throughout the day that I was planning to use for oil bottles).  This led to me scooping stuff (measuring? pshaw) into baggies from 8-5:20 pretty much straight and frantically throwing things into boxes.  I left a half hour late for the airport, and a lot unfinished.  Just so happy to finally be done with that- whatever I did, that’s it.  Hopefully it’s enough.  But it’s great now!  I don’t have to worry about so much except walking!

The car ride to the airport takes longer because of traffic but it’s fine- I know I’ll get through quickly and I do.  I’m feeling more of a feeling of optimism, things can’t phase me.  Hey!  Awesome free hummus and olives in airport lounge!  I get carded because the woman at the bar thinks I’m 20 rather than 34!  Plane’s late, no problem.  I roll into the hotel (gotten for 5,000 IHG points, it was on reduced points breaks rate) around 1:30 am, take a shower and relax until 2.  2:30, I’m still not asleep.  I toss and turn until at least 3, and basically the rest of the night.  Each time I have a vague sensation that too much time has gone by.  Finally I check and it’s 1.5 hrs after I planned to get up.  I make coffee and have a little trail mix, and head to the MARTA station, which thankfully is right across from the hotel.  It’s $3 to go to the North Springs station.  The train is delayed a few times but I really don’t care.

Once at MARTA North Springs I see three other hikers but they all have shuttles that are $60-85.  Uh, no.  As I’d been advised it looks like a pain to hitchhike from there so it’s time for plan B- Uber.  After $22 signup discount and 10% cashback from Discover it’s $40 to get a ride in 5 minutes all the way to the trailhead at Springer mountain, including the last 10 miles on a compact dirt road (this takes about 45 minutes of the drive time).  My driver gives me his personal business card which is in the form of a fake trillion dollar bill (a la the current US budget deficit) complete with multiple forms of contact info- including a QR code.  He wears a suit when he drives “just in case”; today’s specimen was a mismatched orange and beige plaid combo- classy.  Actually though we had a nice conversation about politics, and most importantly, he was totally game to drive almost two hours to the Appalachian trail from the Atlanta suburbs.

When I get there a guy named Mountain Squid was signing people in.  Apparently already 30 people had started out that day before noon, though around half were section hikers.  I started my way up the 1 mile “backwards” to Springer.  A half mile in I can’t stand it anymore and sprint off trail to pee.  Got a rip in the Frogg Toggs rainsuit already, and I hadn’t officially started yet!  Oh well.  At the top it was grey and foggy, didn’t feel like a mountain at all.  There was a drawer in the rock on the right side, reminded me of that key slot in the Hallmark version of The Secret Garden (who’s with me?  Right?)

It was raining bits of the trail after, feeling good though. Not so much nasties on the trail but then the rain started to pick up.  Got to Stover Creek shelter which is a beaut, couple guys and I decided to keep this nice one and avoid the predicted downpour.  Rain came down hard but eventually let up completely.  The sun came out and reflected on water droplets like icicles.

Miles hiked: 3.8